How to Draw a Sliding Glass Barn Door in Plan

This footstep-by-stride tutorial shows yous how to build a befouled door at home.

Many of our readers accept asked united states of america what'south the best mode of tackling homemade sliding barn doors. It's easy to see why: building a sliding barn door means y'all don't accept to rip open and reframe a wall for a pocket door.

DIY sliding barn door hardware is available in all fashion of styles and budgets, and the door options are limitless—from salvage finds to original DIY creations similar this ane, a mix of pallet wood and common cedar. Follow this tutorial on how to build a sliding befouled door from TOH senior technical editor Mark Powers.

14 Steps to Building Your Own Sliding Befouled Doors

Overview

Gregory Nemec

Plan for a 2 twenty-four hour period project:

• Twenty-four hours 1: Build the door (Steps ii-ten).
• 24-hour interval ii: Hang the door (Step 11-thirteen)

Earlier you begin, measure the width of the door from the outside edges of the casing, then social club a hardware kit with a runway twice that width.

What type of wood do you use to make a befouled door?

Cut Listing for Installing a Sliding Door

Designed to cover a 30-inch-wide opening with iv-inch casing on either side, this door measures 38½ inches wide past two¼ inches thick by 83½ inches tall.

• 1x6 pine boards for the back: Cut the boards ½ inch shorter than the height of the opening to allow the door to pass over the floor guide.
• 1x3 strapping for blocking: Cut a length the width of the piece of work surface; ours measured 48 inches. And so cut the rest of the board into blocking.
• 1x5 pino for the filler strips: Cut 3 rails the width of the door; ours measured 38½ inches. And then cut four stiles to make full between the runway, completing the upper and lower panels of the door. Our stiles measured 35 inches long for the upper panel and 34 inches long for the lower i, to create the 1-inch channel for the flooring guide.
• Pallet boards: About threescore boards at least 24⅜ inches long, mitered to parallel 45-caste angles on each stop to fit.
• 1x6 cedar for face up frame: Cut two stiles the height of the door; ours measured 83½ inches. Then cut four rails to bridge between the stiles; ours measured 27½ inches. Edge-glue and clench two of those rails together to brand the bottom rail. Rip 2 inches off one edge after the glue dries.
• 1x4 pino for the mounting runway: Cut information technology to match the track length; ours measured 77 inches.

Step one: Assemble the Boards

Ryan Benyi

• For our thirty-inch-broad opening, seven 16s spanned the casing perfectly; you may need to rip the pino boards to width.
• Mensurate from the floor to the top of the door casing, then cut the boards ½ inch shorter on a miter saw.
• Gang the boards next, place the blocks along the outside edges, and utilise long bar clamps to cinch them together.
• Square upwardly the assembly with longer strapping at the top and lesser edges.
• Screw the blocks and strapping in place, and remove the clamps.

Footstep 2: Add Filler Strips

Ryan Benyi

• Use a miter saw to cut the 15 filler strips according to the cut listing.
• Add together adhesive and fix the top rail flush along the summit of the boards; adhere the upper stiles below it, flush to the outside edges, and the heart rail below them.
• Add the lower stiles and rails, leaving a 1-inch channel for the floor guide that contains the door.
• Bulldoze a 1¼-inch deck screw through each strip into each xvi information technology crosses.

Step 3: Cut the Chevrons

Ryan Benyi

• Use a straightedge to mark a centerline down the door'due south two inset panels.
• Gear up the miter saw to 45 degrees and cutting 1 end off each pallet board.
• Starting at the superlative rail, barrel the mitered ends of ii pieces of like thickness and colour together at the centerline, forming an arrow.
• Use a combination square to mark the boards nearly ⅛ inch short of where they overlap the stiles, as shown.
• Miter the pieces to length, then dry out-fit them.
• Repeat, i chevron at a time.

Step 4: Cut the Corners

Ryan Benyi

• For the boards that hit the corners, use the combination square to mark where the piece overlaps the stile and the runway.
• Cutting the two angles on the miter saw, every bit shown.
• Later installing the longer pieces, fill the rest of the pattern with scrap, cut to fit.

Step v: Install the Pattern

Ryan Benyi

• With the chevrons dry-fit in both panels, lift out one pair of boards at a fourth dimension, apply panel agglutinative to the undersides, and printing them back in place.
• Using a pneumatic nailer, tack the boards in place with i¼-inch brads, 1 well-nigh each corner of each board.
• Echo the process, adhering and nailing each pair of boards every bit you work down both panels.
• Looking for more decorative options? Explore 11 of our inspirational barn door ideas.

Step half-dozen: Drill Pocket Holes

Ryan Benyi

• At the miter saw, cutting the cedar according to the cut list above.
• Suit the pieces crude-face down covering the filler strips.

• Clamp a pocket-hole jig at the end of a rail, fifty-fifty with one edge, and use the kit bit to drill a hole.
• Reset the jig along the other edge and repeat.
• Drill 2 pocket holes at each end of the upper and middle rails, as shown, and three at each terminate of the wider bottom rail.

Stride 7: Build the Frame

Ryan Benyi

• Use wood gum to the ends of the runway and the adjoining edges of the mating stiles, and then clench the frame together.
• Drive the screws provided with the kit into the edges of the stiles at each pocket hole, as shown.
• Remove the bar clamps.

Stride 8: Attach the Face Frame

Ryan Benyi

Gently remove the face frame and prepare it aside. Utilize panel adhesive in a zigzag pattern along the filler strips. Bring the frame back to the table and orient it rough-side up, hiding the screws. Lay it in place, as shown, and align it along all four edges. Tack it downwards with ane¼-inch brads every 8 inches or so.

Step ix: Rub On the End

Ryan Benyi

• Lightly sand the entire door with 100-grit paper to knock down whatsoever splinters.
• Utilize a cotton wool rag to rub a liberal amount of paste wax into the wood.

Step x: Attach the Rollers

Ryan Benyi

• Center the rolling hardware on the width of the cedar stiles. It may assist to remove the wheels first.
• Mark the screw locations, drill pilot holes into the filler-strip edge with a ⅛-inch chip, then screw the hardware in place, as shown.
• Replace the wheels and slip the rail into their grooves.
• Mensurate between the door and the track to determine how loftier higher up the casing to mount it—¾ inch for this hardware.

Step eleven: Adhere the Mounting Board

Ryan Benyi

• At the miter saw, cut a length of xiv equal to the length of the track.
• We painted ours to match the wall.
• Use a stud finder to locate the framing and mark locations above the head casing.
• Level the mounting lath above the casing and drill pilot holes through it and into each stud with a ⅛-inch chip.
• Secure it with 3-inch deck screws.

Step 12: Install the Track

Ryan Benyi

• Measure ¾ inch to a higher place the casing and mark two spots on the mounting board.
• Concur the rail flat confronting the lath, with its bottom edge at the marks.
• Using a 2-human foot level, check that information technology's level, and then marking each lag bolt location on the board.
• Prepare the rail aside and drill 5⁄sixteen-inch pilot holes at each mark.
• Thread a lag screw through one hole and a standoff and tighten it—non all the way—using a ⅜-inch socket wrench.
• Ratchet the rest of the lags in place, and so go back and snug them all upward.

Step thirteen: Roll the Door On

Ryan Benyi

• Install a doorstop at i terminate.
• With a helper, hoist the door onto the rail and slide information technology to the stop.
• Install the other stop.
• Position the L-shaped flooring guide then that it contains the door in both its open and closed positions.
• Mark the screw locations, drill pilot holes, and secure the guide to the floor with the included screws.
• Position the door handle on the centerline of the stile, drill ⅛-inch pilot holes, and secure information technology with the included hardware.

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Tools:

peltoncourest.blogspot.com

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/doors/21017217/how-to-build-a-sliding-barn-door